VIDEO
Watch Here
Ham radio enthusiasts know that operating from a mobile setup can be both exciting and challenging. In this article, I’ll share my recent experiences with setting up a mobile whip antenna on my camper van, the challenges I faced, and how I resolved them. Let's dive in!
Setting Up the Antenna
Recently, I transitioned to a smaller camper van, specifically a T6. The only feasible location for mounting my mobile whip antenna was on the hatchback. However, things didn’t go as smoothly as I had hoped. Despite my years of experience as a ham radio operator, I still encountered unexpected issues.
After removing the hatch mount from my previous van, I reinstalled it in the new setup, complete with the cable kit. Upon testing, I found that my antenna analyzer produced a straight line on the display—indicative of no resonance at all. This was puzzling, especially since the system had worked perfectly before.
- Diagnosing the Issue - I meticulously checked the antenna connection and the PL259 connection at the far end, both of which seemed fine. After reassembling everything, I still faced the same problem. This is where my trusty multimeter became essential. I discovered an open circuit in the inner conductor of the coax cable, which had fractured where it connected to the hatch mount. Given that the cable was old, I suspected weathering had caused the issue.
Replacing the Equipment
To resolve this, I decided to replace both the coax cable and the hatch mount. Over the years, I had received various samples, and I found a brand new hatch mount in my collection. However, upon inspection, I noticed an issue: the mount was entirely covered in paint. This was problematic because the paint would insulate the connection between the coax and the vehicle, preventing a proper ground.
- Preparing the Mount - To fix this, I had to file down the paint to ensure a good metallic connection. This experience serves as a reminder for all newcomers: always verify that you have solid connectivity between the shank of the antenna and the coax cable. The hatch mount typically uses grub screws that need to pierce through any paint to create a proper connection.
The Effectiveness of Hatch Mounts
Now, how effective is a hatch mount? Ideally, the best place for an antenna is in the center of the vehicle's roof, as it is surrounded by metal, providing a good ground. However, I’ve found that hatch mounts can also yield excellent results, even on vehicles with fiberglass roofs like mine. The proximity of the hatch to the rest of the metalwork usually ensures a solid RF earth connection.
Many people may question whether a hatch mount can perform as well as a roof mount. In my experience, the hatch mount has always delivered satisfactory results. It’s essential to remember that the vehicle’s bodywork plays a role in the antenna system, acting like a dipole. The insulated tires mean that the vehicle's body radiates, contributing to the overall performance.
Choosing the Right Antenna
For my setup, I use two types of antennas. One is a Diamond base-loaded antenna, which is lightweight and easy to adjust. This specific antenna fits well with most hatch mounts, as they are typically SO239 connections. However, I also wanted to experiment with a 3/8 inch antenna, which requires an adapter to connect to the SO239 mount.
- Using Adapters for Compatibility - To adapt a 3/8 inch antenna to a PL259 connection, I found a handy adapter that allows for this conversion. This is particularly useful for those who want to use different antennas without investing in new mounts. I also converted one of my Ampro antennas to fit this setup. While the height of this antenna is beneficial for efficiency, it’s crucial to ensure that the element doesn’t extend too far into the helical section to avoid performance degradation.
Operating from the Van
When operating from the van, I use my reliable IC-705 transceiver, which allows me to work on HF, VHF, and UHF bands. For HF operations, I typically run between 5 to 10 watts, which suits my portable style. In my van, I’ve installed a robust 1200W power supply that powers not only my radio but also other appliances like a microwave and electric kettle.
- Static Mobile vs. Mobile Operations - It’s worth noting that I don’t operate while driving; I prefer static mobile or portable operations. Operating on the move can be dangerous, especially with heavier antennas like the Ampro. For stationary setups, a sturdy mount is essential, and I’ve opted for a stronger Diamond mount with four grub screws for added stability.
Performance and Results
After overcoming the initial setup challenges, I was pleased with the performance of my antenna system. I achieved a very good VSWR, and the coverage across the bands was impressive. It’s crucial to remember that the vehicle’s bodywork is part of the antenna system, and many users may overlook this fact.
Image: Results- VSWR
Conclusion: Enjoying Ham Radio
In conclusion, my experiences with setting up a hatch mount antenna on my camper van have reinforced the importance of careful installation and maintenance. While challenges may arise, the rewards of static mobile operation are well worth the effort. Whether you’re a seasoned operator or a newcomer, I encourage you to explore mobile options and find what works best for you.
Thank you for your continued support of this channel and for being part of the ham radio community. If you’re considering adapting your antennas or looking for reliable equipment, I highly recommend checking out the various options available. Until next time, enjoy your ham radio adventures!
For more information please visit our online store or alternatively contact us and we’ll be happy to assist you!